‘Every Chef Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.